Q: How do I lower the FRONT of my 128?
A: There are two practical methods of lowering the front of a 128. The first, and
better, method is to install a pair of '74-78 X1/9 rear struts and springs. You will use
the top mount of your 128 on these struts as the X1/9 mount is different. This method will
lower the front dramatically without stiffening it up too much (like when you cut springs)
and maintains the right amount of travel so it won't bottom out the strut (another
drawback of cutting springs). Some negative camber will also be introduced, which will
improve handling.
The second method is to cut your stock 128 springs. Removing 2-3 coils will lower it
significantly. However, a result of cutting the springs is that they will stiffen up,
giving a harsher ride. Also, if too many coils are removed, the strut has the chance of
bottoming out. I cut 2-1/2 coils off the springs in my 128 sedan and never had any
problems however.
If you lower the front of a 128 too much you may need to shorten the tie-rods to retain
proper toe setting. Watch out for this! X1/9 tie-rod ends can be used to correct this problem, as they are a bit shorter than the 128 tie-rod ends.
One other note is that the coupes have shorter
springs than the sedans anyway, so using the X1/9 struts may not have as dramatic an effect on the coupes as the sedans.
Q: How do I cut the springs on my 128?
A: To cut the springs, you need an electric or compressed-air tool with a disc for
cutting metal - it will take several years with a hacksaw! Decide how many coils you want
to remove (2-1/2 recommended) and cut away. It is best to use a torch to bend the end of
the cut spring level enough to sit even in the seat. However, I didn't do that when I cut
my springs, and as long as you reassemble them carefully, you shouldn't have any problems
with them falling off the perch.
Q: How do I lower the REAR of my 128?
A: Space the spring perch away from the A-arm. You can either make threaded spacer
blocks to screw onto the existing studs, which the perch mount on, and then bolt the perch
to the bottom, or knock out the studs in the A-arm and put longer bolts through (putting
something around the threads as a spacer). The ride-height may be adjusted by using
different sized spacers. Here's what it looks like:
Make sure you move the brake compensator connection (form "A" to "B" on the photo) so the compensator still functions properly.
It is also possible to lower the rear by removing a leaf from the leaf spring assembly.
I do not recommend this as it would make the rear suspension rather soft, making it easier
to bottom out, and induce body-roll.
One note of caution: if you lower your 128 and are running wide tires it may be
necessary to roll/hammer the wheel arch lip to prevent rubbing.
Q: Can I stiffen the rear of my 128?
A: Yes. This can be done by adding a leaf to the leaf spring assembly. The ideal
situation would be to find a 128 wagon to donate its rear spring. This has a third, short
spring which adds stiffness. Wagon springs are tough to find but a leaf could probably be
added from another 128 spring assembly. The clips that hold them together may need
modification, but it shouldn't be too difficult an operation.
Q: How can I make my 128 handle better? Would swaybars help?
A: To make your 128 handle better it is best to lower it first. If you don't want to change
the ride height, or just want to make the car handle even better, then adding/changing a swaybar is your next best option. In stock form
the sedans have a 19mm front swaybar, the wagons have a 22mm front swaybar, and the
coupes do not have a front swaybar. None of them have a rear swaybar. The larger wagon swaybar will fit on the front of a
sedan without any modification. Adding a larger front
swaybar, while it will reduce body-roll, will only increase understeer. The better option
would be to add a rear swaybar. This will give the car more neutral handling, and decrease
body-roll. For racing purposes it may be desirable to add a larger front swaybar in
conjunction with a rear swaybar. Addco Industries produces larger diameter front, and rear swaybars for 128s. I installed one of their rear swaybars with urethane bushings on my 128 and noticed a huge difference in handling. The car cornered much flatter and more neutral, and the inside front tire wouldn't spin when I tried to accelerate out of a corner.
Q: What options do I have for performance shocks/struts on my 128?
A: Sadly, the options are rather limited (at least here in the US). I have seen a handful of web pages which claim to sell Koni inserts for the 128, though I have never tried to purchase anything from them (I have the X1/9 struts on my cars, and only 128 inserts are listed on those sites). I may try to get a set of rear inserts though. Again, you have to have struts which can be disassembled to use the inserts.
Sears sells Gabriel strut cartridge inserts
for the '74-78 X1/9s. Those X1/9 struts can be disassembled and the inserts installed. KYB inserts are apparently no longer produced. If you manage to find someone who has some for the X1/9 or 128, snatch them up! You can also rebuild the standard struts by pulling them apart, cleaning them well and putting a multigrade oil like GTX2 in them. That is, if the seals aren't shot.
Q: What wheels will fit on my 128? What size tires?
A: Most any Fiat wheel with the 4x98 bolt pattern will fit on a 128. The offset,
however, might not be correct for the application, and may create wheel-rub. Lancia Beta
wheels work nicely since they are 14x5.5 alloy wheels with a front-wheel-drive offset.
They look great on a 128 too!
The largest practical tire size that will fit a 128 is a 185 series. These will require
some rolling of the rear wheel well lips if your car is lowered. Anything larger would
probably require fender flares or other serious modifications.
The answers in this FAQ were gleaned from my own experience with the 128 and from the Fiat Page Forum posts of the following Fiat nuts: Marc Frost, Paul Sutherland, and Dwight Varnes.
Addco rear swaybar, with mounting hardware for one side shown.
This page last updated: January 11, 2001
This page written: July 8, 1998
Courtney Waters courtney@mirafiori.com
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